Sailing on Fortitude (July 18-23)

Industrial coast of St. Vincent (Jul 18, 2004, 10:33am) We left Petit Byahaut around 10am and sailed south for Bequia. While we were sailing past the coast of St. Vincent, I took this picture. This is Camden Park Bay, the industrial heartland of St. Vincent.

Local fisherman on northwest point of Bequia (Jul 18, 2004, 12:10pm) We were heading for Admiralty Bay, on the west side of Bequia, sailing from the north. This picture shows the shore of Rocky Bay, a small bay on the outside point of land that makes up the northernmost part of Admiralty Bay. The picture shows what looks like local fisherman in a small encampment on the shore of Bequia.

Sailboat and houses in Port Elizabeth (Jul 18, 2004, 12:12pm) We sail into Admiralty Bay. As we pass by, I took this picture of houses on the north sore of the bay. The sailboat in the foreground looks like it has seen better days.

The ferries are all docked on Sunday (Jul 18, 2004, 12:13pm) It was Sunday and none of the ferries were running. Instead, the ferries that move people and cars between the islands of the Grenadines, are all shown here, docked in Port Elizabeth.

Morningstar in Admiralty Bay (Jul 18, 2004, 12:15pm) There were a number of photogenic sail and power boats moored in Admiralty Bay while were there. This is the Morningstar, as you can see by looking closely at the side of its bow.

Sailboat in Admiralty Bay (Jul 18, 2004, 12:17pm)

Looking towards downtown Port Elizabeth (Jul 18, 2004, 12:19pm) This is a picture from the deck of the Fortitude, looking towards downtown Port Elizabeth, Bequia. You can see the ferries moored on the left side of the picture. Most of the downtown shops are very close to the water and can not been seen in this picture.

Octopus pulled from a glass jar from under boat (Jul 18, 2004, 12:36pm) Soon after we moored in Admiralty Bay, Jeremy (Fortitude's captain) went for a swim. When ha came back out of the water, we was carrying a small glass jar that an octopus had turned into its home. Jeremy dumped the octopus on the deck for us to gawk at. In this picture, you can get a feel for the size of the octopus, next to a writs watch and a small knife.

Octopus poses for the camera (Jul 18, 2004, 12:37pm) Another picture of the octopus that was found in a glass jar under the boat. After we finished taking pictures, the octopus was returned to the ocean.

The shore of Bequia's Lower Bay (Jul 18, 2004, 01:06pm) In a fit of naming frenzy, a couple of the sections of Admiralty Bay in Bequia are given their own name. The northwest part of Admiralty Bay is called Point Bay, and the southwest part of Admiralty Bay is also known as Lower Bay. There are a couple of hotels and guest houses along the eastern shore of Admiralty Bay, south of Port Elizabeth. This is one of the hotels (I do not know its name).

Daphne's Boutique in Port Elizabeth (Jul 18, 2004, 02:28pm) In the sailor's guidebook that was onboard the Fortitude, I noticed that there was a store called Daphne's Boutique in Bequia. That peaked my interest, and went we went ashore, I kept an eye out for the store. Here is a picture of Daphne's Boutique (actually its just a picture of the sign). We did not bother going into the boutique since it was Sunday, and everything was closed.

Admiralty Bay in Bequia (Jul 18, 2004, 02:48pm) We did take one short hike while we were in Bequia. Daphne and I walked from Port Elizabeth, along the north shore of Admiralty Bay, to the old fort on the point. When we got to the fort (which was more of a gazebo with canons), I took this picture, looking back on Admiralty Bay. You can see the ferries docked at Port Elizabeth in the center of the picture. The road we walked from Port Elizabeth to the fort is on the left hand side of the picture. I think that Fortitude is in the picture somewhere to the far right, but I am hard pressed to pick it out from the large number of sailboats moored in the bay.

Port Elizabeth in Bequia (Jul 18, 2004, 02:50pm) Another shot of Port Elizabeth and Admiralty Bay taken from the old fort on the point.

Sailboats in outer Admiralty Bay (Jul 18, 2004, 02:55pm) This is another shot from the old fort at the entrance to Admiralty Bay. Here you can see the beach in Lower Bay, and some sailboats heading into or out of Admiralty Bay.

Contrast between social groups in the Grenadines (Jul 18, 2004, 03:05pm) I took this picture of some Bequian locals swimming in Admiralty Bay during our hike back from the old fort. I think the caption of the picture says it all.

Boats anchored in Admiralty Bay (Jul 18, 2004, 03:06pm)

Ferries docked in Port Elizabeth (Jul 18, 2004, 03:16pm) Here is another look at the ferries docked in Port Elizabeth, but from the side this time. I took this picture as we walked back from out hike to the old fort.

Most of the stores are closed on Sunday (Jul 18, 2004, 03:18pm) Towards the end of our short hike, Daphne realized that her sandals were chaffing her toe and needed to be replaced. The good news was that we were in Port Elizabeth, a tourist town with lots of stores. The bad news was that it was Sunday and every store was closed. Well, not every store. You can see open store in this picture, behind Daphne. But it didn't have any sandals that Daphne wanted. We actually got back from the hike a few minutes earlier than expected and had to wait for Jeremy to come pick us up in the dingy. With all the stores closed, all we could do was sit around and admire the scenery.

Using the barbeque on the sailboat (Jul 18, 2004, 06:15pm) Dinner that night was barbequed pork. Jeremy cooked the meat on this small barbeque grill attached to the side of the sailboat.

Sunset in Admiralty Bay (Jul 18, 2004, 06:36pm) This is the first in a series of sunset pictures. Every night on the sailboat, I took pictures of the setting sun. This picture (and the next) were sunset on our first night on Fortitude. Since we were on the leeward side of the island, the only thing between us and the horizon were other sailboats (and some annoying cloud banks).

Sunset in Admiralty Bay (Jul 18, 2004, 06:41pm)

Diesel, ice, water, laundry - room service (Jul 19, 2004, 07:51am) Morning after a night in Admiralty Bay. The boat in this picture goes around to all the moored sailboats providing various services to the boats. It clearly advertises its services on its sides. Although you I never got a good picture of the other side of this service boat, it advertised "laundry".

Daphne eats breakfast in Fortitude cockpit (Jul 19, 2004, 07:53am) Fortitude is not a very big boat. All four of us (Daphne, me, Jeremy, the captain and Vanessa, the mate) basically live in the small cockpit in the back of the boat. Here I am standing in the front of the boat, taking a picture of Daphne as she east breakfast in the cockpit.

Seagull dingy from the side (Jul 19, 2004, 10:02am) One of my favorite pictures, we passed this overturned dingy in Admiralty Bay on our way ashore to pick up some supplies. As you can see, this dingy proved to be a favorite resting spot for a bunch of the local seagulls. By the way, its not that there was a pretty female seagull off to the left attracting the gaze of all the males -- its just that seagulls always rest facing into the wind.

Seagull dingy in Admiralty Bay (Jul 19, 2004, 10:02am) Here is another angle on that seagull covered dingy in Admiralty Bay.

Dingies docked near the Bequia boardwalk (Jul 19, 2004, 10:03am) Since so many sailboats visit Bequia, in order to make it easy for the crew and passengers to visit town, there are a number of "dingy docks" along the shore line where dingies can be tied up. When Jeremy and I went to shore to pick up supplied, I took this picture of one of the dingy docks, showing a number of dingies tied up.

The Friendship Rose in Admiralty Bay (Jul 19, 2004, 10:16am) Another photogenic sailboat moored in Admiralty Bay. The Friendship Rose is actually available for charter.

Ship docked at Port Elizabeth (Jul 19, 2004, 10:18am)

Seagulls resting on the bow of a boat (Jul 19, 2004, 10:20am) On our way back to the Fortitude, from our supply run, the seagulls had left the upside down dingy. However, I did see a bunch of seagulls (the same ones?) perched on the bow of this boat.

Big Cay and West Cay of Bequia (Jul 19, 2004, 11:02am) When we left Admiralty Bay, we went along the southern shore of the bay. This is a picture from the Fortitude looking west. The two islands are Big Cay and West Cay (rightmost). The rest of the land is part of Bequia proper.

Moonhole on Bequia (Jul 19, 2004, 11:08am) This is a picture of the famous "moonhole" development on Bequia's south shore. Moonhole was a natural development build in the 1960's. The dwellings were made of nothing but stone, wood and whalebone (no windows, only openings in the stone). This is a picture of the original moonhole house. It was named because the full moon would set, twice a year, though the hole in the natural arch. Rumor says that the development was abandoned after a large rock came crashing through the bedroom ceiling.

Moonhole ruins on Bequia (Jul 19, 2004, 11:06am) Another picture of the moonhole development. This picture shows some of the other hours (now in ruins), further up the coast (east) from the original moonhole house shown in the last picture.

Ruins on the western end of Bequia (Jul 19, 2004, 11:10am) I took this picture of a dwelling high in the hills on the southwest point of Bequia. I do not know if this building is currently in use, or has been abandoned.

A sailboat approaches West Cay (Jul 19, 2004, 11:11am) Big Cay is the small island in the center of the picture. West Cay is the next island to its right. The left side of the picture shows the west most point of the island of Bequia. As you can see, we were not the only sailboat heading for the cays this morning.

West Cay, Bequia (Jul 19, 2004, 11:16am) A close-up of West Cay, an island just off the southwest point of Bequia. We sailed past this cay on our way from Bequia to Union Island, to the south.

Isolated house on Union Island (Jul 19, 2004, 03:40pm) Four and a half hours after leaving Bequia behind, we come to Union Island (a trip of around 17 miles). This is a house I spotted on a ridge on the northwest point of Union Island.

And here is dinner, fresh tuna (Jul 19, 2004, 03:37pm) Whenever the boat was under sail, traveling between islands, Jeremy would trail two fishing lines with lures on the end in the hope of catching dinner. During our six days on the boat, Jeremy caught two fishes (although the second fish was just before we left for Petit St. Vincent so we never got to eat it). On our journey between Bequia and Union Island, Jeremy caught this tuna. You can see it here in the bucket where Jeremy put the fish while we removed the hook.

Another shot of the tuna Jeremy caught (Jul 19, 2004, 04:11pm) Here is another picture of the tuna that Jeremy caught off the coast of Union Island. Although it is difficult to judge, the tuna is a few feet long. And doesn't it look tasty?

The lucky lure that caught the tuna (Jul 19, 2004, 03:44pm) This is a picture of the lure that Jeremy used to catch the tuna. Jeremy has a collection of a few different lures that he alternates among in his quest for dinner each day.

Jeremy cleans the fish while we go snorkeling (Jul 19, 2004, 04:15pm) A half an hour after catching the fish, the Fortitude moored in Chatham Bay, off the west side of Union Island. While Daphne and I went for a snorkel, Jeremy spent the time dealing with the tune he caught. In this picture you can see Jeremy cleaning the fish.

Rainbow over Union Island (Jul 19, 2004, 05:06pm) It was raining lightly in the evening of July 19th (and it stormed that night). During a break in the rain, I noticed this rainbow arched over the expanse of Union Island. In this picture you can also see the beach in Chatham Bay as well as a few other boats that had moored there for the night. (This is my only picture of Chatham Bay.)

Scientific Maritime Service in Chatham Bay (Jul 20, 2004, 08:55am) This boat was also moored in Chatham Bay with us on the night of July 19th. When we first arrived in the is boat was listing as if it had taken on water. By the next morning (as you can see in this picture), the boat had righted itself. We suspect that they had to patch a hole in the side and then pump the boat out all night long.

Daphne sitting at the bow of Fortitude (Jul 20, 2004, 09:58am) The morning of July 20th and we sail from Union Island to Sandy Island (a distance of around 5 miles), just north of Carriacou (which is actually part of Grenada). Here you see Daphne riding up in the front of the boat. The island in the distance is Carriacou.

Vanessa, Fortitude's mate (Jul 20, 2004, 10:00am) Vanessa was Jeremy's mate during the spring and summer of 2004 (she went back to the Netherlands that August). It was Vanessa's job to occasionally pull on a few ropes and clean up after meals (although I suspect that she did some other things as well). As you can see from this picture, the life of a sailboat mate is a hard one.

What's left of the vegetation on Sandy Island (Jul 20, 2004, 11:05am) Sandy Island is a small strip of sand just north of Carriacou. I was told that Sandy Island used to be covered with palm trees but a recent hurricane wiped out most of its vegetation. All that's left is one sick looking palm tree and some scrub brush.

Pelican in mid flight (Jul 20, 2004, 11:28am) During the sailing part of our trip, we saw often say three different types flying near the boat -- seagulls, frigate birds and pelicans. Pelicans were the hardest to take a picture of because they had no interest in any food scraps that might have escaped from the kitchen. This was the best picture I got of a pelican in flight. This was taken over Sandy Island, where a bunch of pelicans were feeding on the large schools of fish near the beach.

Pelican diving for fish near Sandy Island (Jul 20, 2004, 11:28am) This is not a picture of a dead bird. This is a pelican, caught at the instant it was diving into the shallow water for a fish. That's Sandy Island right behind the pelican, and from our snorkeling trip after lunch I included a picture of the school of fish that the pelican was feeding on.

Caribbean reef squid (Jul 20, 2004, 11:58am) Just before lunch, during our stop at Sandy Island, we jumped in the water to do a snorkeling near Sandy Island. This is the first set of underwater pictures from our sailboat trip. (Although we also did some snorkeling in Chatham Bay, it was too dark then to take pictures). There was a whole school of reef squids floating by in the shallow water. This picture and the next two are the best shots I took of the squids.

A pair of reef squids (Jul 20, 2004, 11:58am)